shaving Tips & Tricks : How To Shave With Straight Razor | How To Shave With A Safety Razor

How To Shave With A Straight Razor

For first-time and relatively new users of straight razors, learning how to shave with a cut-throat razor not only sounds daunting but is also the time when susceptibility to getting nicks, cuts and lots of skin irritation is at its highest.

Many new straight razor shavers are put off quite early in their "career" and the razors are often consigned to the drawer or put back up for sale on an auction site.

Realising that learning how to shave with a straight razor is not an overnight task is quite important, as with learning any new skill that involves a tool of some kind, it requires patience, dexterity and of course a well-honed and shave-ready razor to complete the job properly.

Without these things, anyone shaving with a straight razor will most likely end up getting a sub-par shave, and this straight razor shaving guide should help you get off to a better start next time you pick up your favourite badger brush, cream and straight razor and set off tackling your beard.

First and foremost, the sharpness of the razor is the most important thing. Contrary to popular belief, the sharper the razor is does not mean that you will end up getting more cuts when compared to using a dull razor.

When you use a blade with a less than perfect edge, the razor will snag to varying degrees on your beard, and this snagging if not controlled properly will almost certainly lead to nicks and cuts.

Inexperienced straight razor shavers usually put this down to their own poor technique rather than the razor.

Learning how to shave with a sharp straight razor is the first point of call, and if you do not know how to restore the edge yourself, you should seek advice from an experienced straight razor shaver who will put you in touch with a "honemeister", a term often used on forums to describe someone that is very capable of restoring the sharpness on the edge of a straight razor.

Assuming at this stage you have a straight razor with a great shaving edge, you now need to strop the edge of the blade. To do this you will of course need a strop, which is a double-sided strip of leather and canvas used to run the blade backwards and forwards in two strokes. One forwards and one back, each motion is referred to as a "lap".

As such you should lap your straight razor, 20 or 30 times on each side of the strop, starting on the canvas first, and then using the leather-faced side last of all.

Stropping is very important as this process restores the edge of the straight razor between shaves by removing the residue and polishing the minuscule teeth on the edge of the razor that cannot be seen by the naked eye.

Learning a good stropping technique is important, as this will reward you with a great shave, meaning that you will have less skin irritation and virtually eliminate getting cuts or nicks.

The Straight Razor Shave

Start off with taking a regular shower to open the skin pores on your face, the more steam the better. Some straight razor shavers like to use some hair conditioner or a pre-shaving product during a shower to help ex-foliate the skin and soften the beard prior to shaving.

Once you have showered, run hot water into your bathroom sink and strop your razor, have a face towel or two to hand to clean up any spills during your shave, and remember to take your time during the first few months of shaving so that you can observe your technique and improve them during each future shave.

Shaving creams and soaps are vitally important to getting a good quality shave with a straight razor. Do not under any circumstances use a conventional shaving foam or gel that you would regularly use with a disposable or safety razor. These provide little to no skin protection when using a straight razor, and will make an even greater mess during and after the shave.

The shaving cream is designed to provide the skin with nourishment and act as a barrier between the straight razors edge and the skin/You will be surprised at how differently various shaving creams perform, smell, and have an effect on the skins appearance and feel when you have finished shaving.

The choice of shaving cream or soap that you use is a matter of personal preference, and there are literally hundreds to choose from. Using a good quality cream is highly recommended, and although highly subjective, to start using a shaving creams such as Musgo Real, Speick, Trumpers, Taylors, D.R. Harris and Crabtree Evelyn, you won't go far wrong.

As you progress with straight razor shaving, you will identify what shaving creams and soaps suit you best.

With your shaving brush to hand, soak the brush in hot water (not boiling), and gently shake out the excess water in the sink. Then add a spot of shaving cream to the brush, slightly smaller than a small marble, wet the face, and then slowly start scrubbing your face with the brush, applying a moderate amount of pressure using a circular motion in both directions until the face and neck area have a fairly consistent coating of shaving cream.

Refrain from adding too much water to the brush or face as you are lathering up, you can always add a spot more to encourage lathering if your brush is well-loaded with shaving cream. You will know if this is the case or not as the cream will feel thick as the brush is moved across the face.

Experiment with adding tiny amounts of water to the face once shaving cream has been applied until it feels right. Too much water will make the cream run thin, and not provide an effective barrier for your skin, and this will almost certainly lead to skin irritation. You can always add a touch more shaving cream to your brush and start over if this is the case.

Now that you are ready to shave, take your straight razor and pull the skin tight using your non-shaving hand, and start with a downward shaving pass on your face. Unlike using a conventional safety razor, you will soon learn that the best straight razor shaves come from using skin pulling techniques that you will learn as you go.

The skin should always be tightened by your fingers or hand during each stroke with a straight razor. Shaving on slack skin will only result in snagging and cuts, so you will need to start getting used to using your other hand to help tighten the skin.

The straight razor should be held at approximately 30 degrees to the face, perhaps slightly shallower. Higher degrees of cutting will again result in poor cutting results and possible cuts, so use your eyes as the razor moves during each stroke and maintain the correct cutting angle.

During your first few shaves with a straight razor, remember that you do not have to complete the whole shave using the straight. You are not obliged to complete the whole shave during the first stages of the learning process, and it is no disgrace to pick up a disposable to finish off small areas that you may have missed.

This will not only save you a great deal of frustration trying to reach seemingly inaccessible areas, it will also greatly reduce your chances of getting a nick. Patience is the key.

Once you have completed your first downward pass, you may want to try an upward pass to get a very close shave.

Splash off the remaining cream from your face with some water and re-apply your shaving cream, using a lighter pressure with the shaving brush. Use a circular motion once again until the face and neck area have a good coating of shaving cream, soak and wipe the razor with a piece of kitchen towel, or an old flannel taking great care not to touch the edge of the razor and you are now ready to start the second, upward pass.

Using the same techniques in the reverse direction, pulling the skin on the neck downwards with one hand, using a 30 degree angle, start the upward strokes, gently and with consistent pressure until the neck area is done. Then pull the skin downwards from the lower chin area and work your way over the jawbone onto the cheeks.

At this stage you should now start pulling the skin upwards on the cheek area and maintain the strokes with your straight razor until the cheeks are done.

Shaving with an upward stroke on the moustache and chin areas is something that many straight razor shavers do, though it is recommended that you should only start doing this if you really need to, and only once you have become confident in using the straight razor.

When you have finished both passes on your skin, clean your razor by running some cold water on the blade and using a kitchen towel to remove all moisture from the razor. You can pick the razor up and blow any excess water through the gap in the scales as well.

This will prevent any water from dripping down into the gaps where the pins and washers meet the blade which is where the majority of rust spots start on a razor if it is poorly maintained.

Open the blade and place it on a towel somewhere to allow it to dry out for 10-15 minutes.

Prior to storing the razor, you may add a tiny spot of mineral oil to the blade and rub it in gently using a dry piece of kitchen towel or cloth.

After the shave you will want to relieve the skin after it has been ex-foliated by the straight razor.

Like shaving creams, there are just as many choices when it comes to shaving balms and aftershaves, and for new straight razor users, try using types that contain no alcohol and have skin-nourishing ingredients in them.

Shaving Tricks & Tips : Benefits Of Shaving Oil

The Benefits Of Shaving Oil

Many people are not familiar with shaving oils and they are really missing out. Shaving Oil is one of the most efficient ways to get a smooth close shave while also cutting down on irritation and razor burn. Here are three reasons why shaving with oil is the best thing you can do for yourself regardless of the place on your body you are looking to de-hair.

1) Use it as by itself or as a pre-shave moisturizer

Shaving oil is very versatile. You can use it by itself or combine it with another shaving product. If using it by itself the oil will allow the razor to glide over your skin without catching on the stubble. The oil is an excellent lubricant and helps protect your skin from the harsh blades of the razor, by forming a protective coating on your skin. Every time you drag the razor over your skin the blades wick away moisture which can lead to irritation and razor burn. For that reason if you are shaving in sensitive areas I recommend using shaving oil as a pre-shaving oil. Liberally massage the oil on the area to be shaved and without washing off the oil in between apply your favorite shaving lotion. It is best if using a non-foaming shaving cream or gel. This extra layer of shaving goodness can further protect your skin and allow an even smoother glide of the razor.

2) It's green and efficient

When shaving with shaving oil you will find that a little goes a long way. One 4oz bottle of shaving oil can last up to a whole year of daily whole body shaving. Just think of how many cans of shaving cream you go through in one year. That is a lot of waste. There is no need to further clutter up our landfills. The longevity of a single bottle also has other benefits such as travel. Don't lug around that large can of shaving foam. Just pack a 1oz bottle in your carry-on and you won't even have trouble at airport screening stations. You are well under the 3oz liquid carry-on maximum and still know that however long you are away from home it probably won't run out.

3) It's all natural

Most shaving products on the market rely on heavy doses of chemicals. Shaving oils are a blend of natural oils that are grown in a field, not produced in a factory. The simplest form of shaving oil is Extra Virgin Olive Oil. It's great for your skin and will help with a shave. Most producers of shaving oils go a step further having concocted their own blends over the years using high quality oils to give an even better shaving experience.

So, whether you want a more environmentally friendly way to shave or treat your skin to the most healthy and smooth shave possible, Shaving oil is the way to go. Treat your skin to something special and help save mother earth.

Shaving Tricks : Straight Razors vs Safety Razors

Straight Razors vs Safety Razors

Straight razors are the new-old kid on the block in men's shaving - but how do they measure up to the modern safety razor? Here are some facts . . .

Durability: Winner by KO, the straight razor. Looked after properly, a straight razor will literally last a lifetime, providing as good a shave when you're eighty as when you were eighteen. A modern safety razor - the body, not the blades - might last a few years if you're lucky.

Ease of use: Winner by TKO, the safety razor. Very little practice is needed to produce a good result, whereas the straight razor demands a certain level of skill before you will get a decent shave. It's a patience thing - no patience equals a rough shave and maybe a few nicks as well!

Convenience: Split decision - although maybe the win goes to the safety razor as no preparation of the razor is needed prior to shaving. Just pick it up and use it - not something you can do with a straight razor, which needs whetting on a strop before each use.

Cost: Straight points win for the straight razor. Although some straight razors can cost hundreds of dollars, a good, workmanlike model (no fancy handles or expensive engraving) will probably set you back about eighty dollars. A perfectly good vintage model for half that cost will still last years. Total how many blade cartridges you throw in the bin in a year. Multiply it by how many more years you think you'll be shaving. It's a no-brainer.

Smoothness of shave: It's a draw. There's a limit to how smooth your skin can be and both types of razor achieve this level of slickness. A downside for the safety razor is that the multi-blade cartridge can pull the beard hair out from the skin prior to cutting it. Although this gives a really smooth finish, the end of the hair can retreat beneath the skin surface, resulting in ingrowing hairs. The single blade of the straight razor can't do this.

Environmental value: Another clear win for the straight razor. No blade cartridges or plastic packaging to go into the landfill, no need to get the 'latest model' - there simply isn't a latest model for the straight razor, which reached its design zenith in about 1930. You cannot make a better one. It makes you wonder how many more blades can be fitted into a safety razor cartridge as a marketing gimmick, doesn't it?

Macho score: First round KO to the straight razor. If scraping off your stubble with three inches of frighteningly sharp, unguarded, highly-polished steel isn't macho, I don't know what is. Skill, patience and dexterity are desirable. Safety razors? Don't make me laugh.

So it looks like the straight razor wins the championship!

Whatever the reason, more and more men seem to be taking up this almost-forgotten skill as part of their daily routine. Although I think it's safe to say (at this point in time anyway) that the likes of Gillette and Wilkinson won't be trembling in their boots, there's no doubt that the straight razor is making a comeback. Whilst firms like Dovo and Thiers-Issard may at the moment be the last bastion of straight razor manufacture, perhaps the next few years will see more manufacturers returning to making this grooming design classic.

Safety Razor : Easy Shaving Tips & Tools

Since their invention, Safety Razors have been the gold standard in shaving. Time after time they deliver the most incredible shaves, which has led many people to put down their mainstream Gillette Mach 3's and convert to the old school.

Safety Razors appeal to a wide range of people- those looking for a super close shave, those who consider shaving an art, and even those who experience terrible rashes/bumps/spots/razor burn and have tried all other options.

The fact that Safety Razors can be totally customised to fit a specific skin type or person makes them second to none. You can get different blades that will shave harsh or gently and razors that can be angled to shave super close or finely. Teamed with a shaving brush, shaving soap and HOT water, you'll quickly find perfection.

There are many different brands to consider, some more expensive than others. However the most well known, trustworthy and quality are definitely Merkur razors- a German company that quite literally creates perfection.

Shaving with a Merkur razor is definitely not a chore. It's an art, and you should feel special to be doing it. If you strive for a perfect shave, you can't go wrong with a Merkur.

Shaving with a Safety Razor

Before you go anywhere near a bathroom, you'll need to insert the blade into the razor. With most razors, especially Merkur, you unscrew the bottom, lift off the top, put the blade in and replace the parts. When you tighten it back up, the blade will bend- this is normal, so don't worry.

Now you're ready to shave. Generally it's better to shave after taking a shower, as this will soften your whiskers and open the pores on your face- making a closer shave within your reach.

First make sure you have the following things to hand:

1. Razor
2. Shaving Brush
3. Shaving Soap
4. HOT Water
5. Towel
6. Moisturiser
7. Cold water

Let the razor and brush soak in hot water for a few minutes before use to heat up, this will help open your pores further.

Lather up the soap with the brush and apply to your face- you want to get a thick lather on your whiskers to provide good lubrication. Looking like Santa is your preference.

NEVER press a safety razor down onto your skin. Let the razor do the work.

Always make sure you wet the razor before and after a stroke. Shave WITH the grain, using small strokes to get a good first shave. You can repeat the previous steps to get a close shave as many times as necessary. It is possible to shave against the grain, but this is only recommended if you don't have super sensitive skin.

After shaving, splash your face with cold water to close the pores. This will prevent irritation and spots occurring from build up of soap or oil.

Apply moisturiser to your face after closing the pores to get some life back into your skin. You'll look and feel great, and the moisturiser will mean your clean shaven face shines through.

Always clean your razor fully after use, and make sure little/no moisture is on it otherwise it could rust.

Furthermore you should change your razor blade regularly- after 5 shaves is the recommended time. If you don't change blades, it will become dull and performance will seriously be decreased. It can also become dangerous, and start cutting your skin. When it comes to safety razors, sensible is best.

Buying a Safety Razor

Safety Razors are all pretty similar, and most work with the same blades. Merkur razors work with pretty much all blades, so are well worth looking at. The most common colour is silver, but you can get lovely gold plated ones for slightly more money.

Unless you are looking for a specific model, or have extremely sensitive skin, a Merkur will do you proud.


When looking at blades, once again Merkur are great to look at. Generally speaking, blades coated in Platinum deliver a better shave, as they are sharper and are able to last longer. If a blade doesnt have platinum, don't avoid it, try it! You never know how good a blade will be unless you see for yourself.

You can buy packs of 5, 10 or even 20; it's best to buy a pack of 10 so you can see which blades provide you with the best shave. Your skin will take a while to get used to a new blade, so don't let 1 bad experience put you off.

Some specialist blades include Feather DE blades. These are Japanese made and the sharpest blades you can buy. Using the same technology as when making Samurai swords, these will shave you so close you won't need to shave again for a week. Be warned, they are very sharp.

Other great brands to check out include Shick, Wilkinson Sword and Personna. Again, each blade will have a different character, so experimentation is the key.

Buying a Shaving Brush

A shaving brush can be as important as the razor you use. A great shaving brush will produce a good, foamy lather on your shaving soap, and this will help you achieve a close shave.

When shopping for a shaving brush, you should aim to get a Badger Hair brush. These are of exceptional quality as the badger hair is strong and ridgid, which means you can really work a lather into the whiskers and skin before shaving. Although more expensive than other brushes, badger hair brushes are simply the best.

If you are a keen shaver, but cannot afford a badger hair brush, don't worry. There are many other great brushes available on the market. Although they won't give you the standard of lather a badger hair brush would, they still enable you to have a great shave.

Buying a Shaving Set

Shaving sets are great because they have everything you need to get shaving right away. Most come with a great razor, blades, a brush, soap and a nice stand to put it all on.

Although expensive, it's actually cheaper to buy all the gear this way than seperately. Besides, it's a one off investment that will last you forever. Unlike a Gillette Mach 3, you won't be changing razors every week. A safety razor really is for life.


Whatever you buy, you'll find out 1 thing. Shaving with a Safety Razor is an amazing experience and will leave you with the closest shave you've had in years. You'll feel like a million pounds, and will look it too!

The Straight Razor

Shaving is a tricky task; without the right tools and gadgets, it can even be a dangerous one. Imagine bringing a dull blade close to your face, one that would require you to exert more force to get the desired results; now that’s an accident just waiting to happen. Now, you can go for disposable razors that promise shaving convenience in a small plastic package, but where’s the fun in that? Shaving would be a more interesting experience if you use something bolder, something that lets you do the shaving efficiently, while giving you a feeling of living (quite literally) on the razor’s edge. A straight razor would be just the tool you’re looking for.

First off, let’s get acquainted with the straight razor (also called cut-throat or open razor). It is a razor that has a blade that can be folded into the handle, and using it requires considerably more skill and finesse compared to using the safety razors (as well as the electric ones) more commonly available nowadays. Those who are avid fans of using a straight razor swear by the fact that the shaving results are superior when compared to using the “more convenient” safety razor; in addition, the element of danger associated with a straight razor only adds to its attraction (there’s nothing tougher than exposing your face and neck to a glinting, sharp object).

There are different types of straight razors, which can be differentiated according to the grinding method, blade width and point type. Knowing the types of straight razors will help you in choosing which one would be best for your requirements. Think of your razor as something extremely personal; and for that, you would need one that fits you as perfectly as possible.

Straight Razor Types

According to Grinding Method. This refers to the curvature of a straight razor’s cross section, and also to the blade’s shape after the manufacturer has finished grinding it.

Hollow Grind: refers to straight razors whose sides have concave cross sections.

Straight or Flat Grind: these razors possess linear cross section sides. They may also be called “wedge” because that’s how their cross section looks like. These models were popular in the late last century. Nowadays, 99% of straight razors feature a hollow grind.

According to Blade Width: the width of straight razors can usually go from 3/8 of an inch to 7/8 of an inch. Wider blades have a longer life cycle and can be more enjoyable to use; however, they require more dexterity and experience. Razors with narrower blades are easier to sharpen and shave with; but, they will have a shorter life and the very narrow (3/8”, for example) blades will always have the tendency to sink into the skin. Widths of 5/8 and 6/8 tend to be the most popular and most recommended for a good shave.

According to Point Type. Refers to the point profile of the straight razor.

Round Point: these straight razors have a semi-circular point profile, and their ends do not possess sharp points. This type of razor is best for those who are just exploring the use of straight razors, as they do not have the exactness of razors with different point types.

Sharp, Sharp Spike or Square Point: these have a straight point profile ending at an extremely sharp point, which is angled perpendicular to the blade’s cutting edge. Highly-experienced users will benefit the most from these types of straight razors, as they are mainly used for precision shaving, especially in hard-to-reach areas. However, they will also provide you with a nick if you are not paying very close attention to what you are doing.

French Point: these razors (also commonly referred to as “oblique point”) have sharper angled curves, and a point profile that looks like a quarter circle. They similarly end in a sharp point like the sharp, spike or square point razors; however the edge is not a straight, abrupt line. A French point razor looks edgy but refined, as compared to its sharp, spike or square point brothers.

How to Safely Use a Straight Razor

After deciding on a straight razor, you have to know the basics of how to use it properly. On your first few tries, go easy on yourself and accept that you may get results that are less than satisfactory; you can come up with patches of uneven shaving, or may get a few nicks in the process. Once you discover the shaving technique you are most comfortable with, you can start relaxing and enjoying the fruits of your (shaving) labor.

You have to choose a high quality straight razor for your shaving needs. Keep in mind that you will be putting this blade against your unprotected face. It would be ideal if you can closely examine the razor before you actually purchase it. Make sure that the blade is in perfect condition (avoid those that have uneven surfaces, nicks, indentations); you also have to check if the scales holding the blade can do so securely; you wouldn’t want a razor that suddenly snaps open just when you least expect it to. The last two pieces of advice are particularly important if you buy an used or old straight razor from Ebay or a flea market.

Probably the most important rule that should be observed is keeping the blade sharp. This ensures that even the toughest hair strands can be cut without having to go through the same area again and again. The sharpness of the blade also contributes to overall safety when shaving; if you use a dull blade, the tendency is to use more force or pressure when you shave, which might lead to accidental nicks and cuts. Keeping the blade sharp will help keep your face (and your neck) free from cuts and nicks.

You can keep the blade sharp by regularly honing it, and stropping it on leather or a flexible piece of canvass. Stropping makes sure that the indentations on the blade are in correct alignment, without having to eliminate any material. You can use a hand-held paddle or a hanging leather strip for your straight razor. Leather is accepted as the best material for this purpose. If you are just starting to use straight razors, you can turn to the Internet for guidance; there are a number of videos online showing you the proper way to strop. For a more personal demonstration you can ask a straight razor aficionado the correct way of doing it.

Make sure that you have your favorite shaving cream or soap handy before using the straight razor. It would be very uncomfortable (and almost impossible) to shave with a dry face; the coarse facial hair might resist the blade’s action, and this will certainly lead to razor burns and other skin irritations. You should apply a thick lather onto your face, and ensure that it doesn’t dry up prior to the actual shaving process. Use a shaving brush to coax the hairs on your face to stand to attention, making it easier for them to be removed by the razor.

You are now ready for the most exciting part, the actual facial hair removal. If it is your first time to use a straight razor, take a deep breath, relax, and try your best to enjoy this experience. If you are too stiff and tense, you might end up making more mistakes, painful ones at that. Your first three fingers should hold the shank, which is the thin, lower part of the blade that is not used for cutting (it also serves as the joint that turns as you fold the blade into the scale). Keep your thumb underneath to hold the razor steady, while your ring and pinkie fingers should be wrapped on the tang (the small protrusion that lets you swing the blade into the scale). With your free hand, stretch the skin on your face so you can get the closest shave possible.

Before we proceed further, you need to keep this in mind: under no circumstances should you move the blade horizontally on your face. Doing this with a sharp razor would most likely lead to pain, and possibly humiliation; you probably won’t be proud in explaining how you got a two-inch (clean, straight) cut on your face.

Let’s move on. Hold the razor at an angle of about 30 degrees to your face and make sure to keep your touch light but firm at the same time. Do your best to keep your hands steady, to avoid moving the razor across your skin unnecessarily. Shave with, or across, the direction of your hair growth. You can shave against the grain if you are already comfortable doing that, although going with the hair growth’s direction will less likely result to hair follicles being ingrown. Apply another layer of lather and go over the same area again to get a closer shave. Repeat, if necessary.

Now look into the mirror and admire that bright, freshly-shaved face. That wasn’t too hard, was it?

There are still a lot of things that you need to know about straight razors; some of the information can be found on user guides all over the Internet, while more can be learned mainly through experience. Our goal here is to arm you with as much useful information as possible, so you can concentrate on using your straight razor for wet shaving without worrying too much about putting your neck on the line, so to speak.